VEVOR 25 Gallon Sandblasting Cabinet, 40-120PSI Portable Sandblasting Cabinet Countertop Heavy Duty Steel Sandblaster with Sandblasting Gun and 4 Ceramic Nozzles

This is what I expect from a vevor tool: cheap, a little rough around the edges, but good enough to meet my needs. Other reviewers say it is difficult to assemble, that screw holes don’t line up and the directions are unclear. They are correct. When the metal frame was welded together, it was allowed to warp, so none of the pieces are perfectly flat or aligned. I had to use tapered punches and a rawhide mallet to get everything to line up for the screws. Once I got everything aligned, however, it all went together just fine. So be patient, take your time, and it’ll work. The directions are opaque at a few points as well, but you can figure it out if you take your time and make educated guesses. Once you get it together, you’ll find it works well. I had to purchase a quick connect attachment to plug in my air hose, but it screwed into the fittings that came with the machine well enough to have no leaks. The gloves are better than the gloves on other budget-level sandblasters I’ve used. I’m running the system from a 5scfm portable compressor, and it’s adequate to keep the blaster running. One of the reasons I chose this cabinet over some of the other cheap models is that it claimed to have lower scfm requirements, and that appears to be the case. I’ve used it to clean scale off steel forgings. It does this very effectively with some 80 grit glass bead media I picked up at Harbor Freight. This blaster is worth the price, and I would buy it again if my shop got robbed.

So... it's a cabinet. There's no denying that. But oh lord when people say these instructions are terrible, they're not kidding. These are AWFUL instructions. Yes, it leaks like a sieve. Yes, the cheap, thin, sheet-metal sides come bent and barely usable. Yes, the bad alloy bolts (Philips head) strip at the drop of a hat and there are no spares. But it's worse than that. Holes don't line up. One connector says it takes an M6 screw (supplied), but is an M4 hole. The hinges use screws and not bolts, and don't thread into anything, so they're just... cosmetically there at best. It comes with a tube of silicone sealant to fix all the leaking because that's cheaper than fixing the construction issues. At the end of the day -- and it may well take a day, it will be a cabinet that you can use to sandblast. But a cardboard box would do that, too. And would leak about the same. You could probably make something out of duct tape, a piece of acrylic, and a ten dollar storage bin that would be about as effective as this, and likely sturdier. For the money, you're getting poorly drilled sheet metal and an blasting gun. Don't expect more than that, and you'll be fine. I've had much better tools from Vevor. This one is just... not very good. For those struggling: remember the feet have to go on with the same bolts as the hopper, so don't forget to attach them before bolting the hopper down. The foam bit over the filter is... apparently part of it and not just protective? The bolt for the chain (through the grounding hole) doesn't fit. You'll need an M4. Get an awl to poke holes in the rubber seal around the hopper, as you have to poke bolts through it. Hook up the LED lamp -- black on the inside, red on the outside -- before bolting the switch down. Add some tape there, so it doesn't get filled with sand. The corner connectors are technically in the instruction picture in step 1, but don't expect the holes to line up with anything. They don't. Don't be afraid to just give up on them and fill those holes with sealant or you will spend all day cursing the terrible quality control. The M5 nuts are 8mm if you need a socket to tighten them. The M6 nuts are 10mm. Slide the clamp ring over the gloves, stretch the gloves over the inside flanges, slide the ring over the flange, and tighten. Get some orange duct tape and tape up corners and sides. They will all leak. The back and front pieces go on the outside of the side pieces. Tighten each bolt on the filter a little at a time -- not one all the way and then the next. The filter needs even pressure on all sides or it won't tighten properly. The notch for the grate on the bottom (they call it a 'net') goes on the back right. Take an M5 nut and an M6 nut and verify which are which in the mixed bag just so you know without sorting later (yes, they mix M5 and M6 in the same bag for one group of parts). Have bandages. Their parts are not well deburred and they will absolutely cut you. Overall, this is incredibly cheap, and it's still making them enough profit to sell overseas. Do the math on that one and you'll know what you're getting.

The gun leaks air at the connector (yes I took it and used new sealant and Teflon) The cabinet doesn't seal fully. It comes with sealant but there is an opening at the back with nothing to close it up, not sure why it's there. The uptake tube is really long. The slope on the bottom isn't steep enough to allow the media to fall back to the bottom. You will find yourself just working the gun and the uptake tube while you blast. But it does the job.

It does what it’s supposed to do but it’s more trouble than it’s worth. In the directions it actually says “some metal pieces may be slightly warped” That is true, so it takes some effort to put it together. It leaks media from everywhere. The window is useless you can’t see anything. I don’t know why it has a filter because the box isn’t sealed. It’s messy. The arm holes are too close together. I was hoping this would be something I could use for projects around the house but it’s going back.

Very good performance for Automotive, Recreational, hobby and crafts. Smaller footprint but cabinet is big enough to handle most projects, does not require a really high CFM air compressor