Blue Demon 308LFC-O X .030 X 1# Spool stainless steel flux cored gasless welding wire

This is easier to weld with than normal mild steel. Good product and will buy again!

I was skeptical about this product, but since getting gas here in Orlando is expensive, I thought I'd try this out. It all boils down to your setting. I have a small Lincoln ProMig 140. Nothing special at 110V. After trial and error, I found that this wire feeds best at speed 4.5, maybe 5 out of 10, which is fairly fast. The puddle works best welding straight at the bead and not at an angle or pulling/pushing the weld, and letting the puddle just run and melt as you go fast. I have my welder turned all the way up to D setting for maximum power. Keeping the gun right on the weld, using a fast straight-line motion without stopping works best. I find that if you go slower, it will burn holes in your SS. If you go power bang lower than the highest, it WILL NOT penetrate... so fast and hot is the only way to go. You're not gonna lay down dimes with this unless you have A LOT of patience... but that being said, with a PRECISE hand and a steady motion, you can weld stainless steel using this just fine. DIrty welds aren't that big of a problem. Nothing an angle grinder can't take care of.This wire actually make an interesting puddle and if you get the hang of it, you can actually make a pretty frigging nice weld with it. Like I said, it's not going to win any prizes in the esthetics department, but after getting the hang of this wire, my welds are surprisingly strong. Don't listen to bad reviews of this wire. PRECISION and PATIENCE, and you have a good product!!!REVISION 1 @ 12/02/2019 - I ordered another spool yesterday and when it arrived, it looked like half the spool was already gone. Check out the pics side by side; Looks not even close to the amount in the listing picture! Is that normal because it's based on weight?? Dunno!!

Disclaimer: I am not a professional welder; most of my experience (~3 years) is with GMAW on mild steel, and I generally dislike dealing with FCAW. Those of you with more experience with FCAW can chuckle into your sleeves all you want at what are likely greenhorn observations I detail below.I put this wire through a 230V Millermatic 180. Part of the job was 1/4" 304L stainless square tubing and plate, horizontal and outside corner welds; this worked well for that purpose once I dialed in the settings. A few things that helped:-Preheat the living hell out of the workpiece, or standby for cold starts and no penetration.-My welder needed waaay higher voltage settings, waaay lower feed settings than the manual recommended; teston scrap until you get it right (of course).-No weaving, drawing e's, or deviation from a straight path in general; gun attitude should be straight in or pull.Otherwise, you'll be getting pockets of slag and cold seams on the edge of your bead; not fun to clean up. It'salso a lot easier to see the puddle if you pull, and pushes the slag back along the bead. Also, I found that 3/4" of stick-out worked well; any closer and I got more splatter.-If you have a straight bead, just let it cool until it starts snapping, then hit it with a torch for a few seconds and the slag should flake right off. Going around a bend, it's a different story; I found myself wishing for a needle gun or blasting cabinet several times.The hardest part of the job was welding some ~0.065 tubing into a penetration in 1/4" plate; I had to dial the voltage down to prevent blow-through, while still getting decent penetration into the plate. Wound up laying down a fat bead directed more toward the plate, and then going over a few times with the voltage turned way up and the feed down low. Hard to maintain a pull gun attitude around a small radius, and to spot/remove all the slag, so it ended up bubbling to the top and requiring more passes, each pass requiring more whacking, scrubbing, and wire-wheeling. It was a nightmare and took way too long.Conclusion: If you have a small stainless project that requires horizontal or flat welds on simple geometry, this works well and is an inexpensive alternative to dropping a bunch of money on stainless wire and a bottle of tri-mix. Just refer to my advice above. More complex geometry, and you've got a real headache coming to you. fwiw.

Using on 304 stainless exhaust pipe and works great. Tried another brand/type of flux core and it smoked and spattered like crazy, this stuff has minimal of either. Also seems to join just fine to mild steel (i.e. steel mufflers)

As indicated in an earlier review. Turn up the voltage, turn down the wire speed. I have a Century GS125 with a 4000 uf capacitor added to the output.With the wire speed "slightly" above 1 and voltage set at 4, this wire will lay dimes on exhaust. I welded pipes and brackets. Works great. Tested it on scrape to "dial in the sizzle" and get an idea of how fast you need to move the wire. It is a thick wire and will clump if you "delay".Remember "Electrode Positive". Positive on the stinger. It's a 180 from normal operations with carbon steel FO wire.The wire is fragile, but I did not have any problem pushing it thru the stinger. I'm guessing the reduced wire speed helps.I purchased .035 contact tips. Turns out if you have .030 installed and have run some steel FO thru it the .035 stainless will glide thru.I used a .8 mm roller. I don't have a .9/.035 roller. It did not seem to affect using the product.The other mod to the welder is a thirty amp Ametherm NTC Thermistor for Inrush Current Limiting. It keeps me from tripping the 15 amp breaker and gives the diodes a chance to dump in the capacitors and not blow up. Doesn't appear to affect the overall power of the welder. Testing with thicker material, I would guess you could weld 1/4" stainless, non-structural, with multiple passes. Little slag and the second pass seems to stick well.Its a honey!