Magicfour Fuel Gas Can Vent Caps, 4 Pack Fuel Gas Can Vent Kits Fuel Gas Tank Vent Caps with Lanyard-Attached Cap for Gas Can Fuel Tank Water Jug to Allow Faster Flowing (New Upgrade)

Good quality

Easy to install and look like they were meant to be there all along.

Update 4/29/21 I just returned from desert trip. my two 2.5 gallon containers now work like I want them to. By leaving the vent caps halfway unthreaded, there was none of the bloating, oilcanning, shrinking. The cans are secured to a shelf on,the back of the vehicle, left out in the daylight and there were 40degree temperature swings, up to near 90 degrees. When it came time to deploy them, the cans emptied rapidly, no glug glug glug. So yes, I'm satisfied. Maybe I'll show a photo sometime of my filler tube system, since all modern cans are (see below) designed to thwart you from using on a vehicle, making an extension nozzle necessary. Hint: nominal 3/4" bendable copper plumbing pipe will go into the filler neck of your vehicle. Shape a short piece to fit your situation so the free end winds up vertical. ( I have van) A household plastic funnel inserted in free end will now let you stand upright, uncontorted and comfortable while you dispense the can into the funnel. ##### Okay, first up, these are much better than the little plastic snap things you can get. And the "kit" is complete with everything you need to install them. But here's why I can't give it my highest regard: 1. As others have pointed out, these are just standard automotive type tire air valve bodies without the valve core (fwiw, you CAN put a valve core in...I played with that myself but it defeats the purpose) . They added some washers, but these are not used the original purpose. So if like me, you want to leave your filled can out in the sun and not have it expand grossly, YOU have to remember to crack open the cap and YOU have to remember to close it when needed. 2. An attempt to improve the product with the addition of a little plastic lanyard was well intended, but that now effectively shortens even more the amount of thread available to put the cap on and...it leaks because it can't be screwed down tight enough. I installed these on a common popular brand, the wall thickness is much less than the advertised 4mm maximum. Thus they leak. My hack solution was to undo the part so I could just ziptie the lanyard to the handle (see photo). I may try to shorten the cap but I was too annoyed and just stopped there. 3. Despite some users with strong (politically based) feelings about "gub-mint" regulations interfering with their personal liberty ( to achieve self immolation I guess) I recognize the reason cans DON'T come with vents is SAFETY. I have an acquaintance whose upper body is 75% scar tissue from using a gas can improperly. Ask him. So yes, the new safety cans with safety fillers are slow. And here I am, adding vents. 4. Part of the safety features required of new cans is a device inside the main opening to thwart flames entering the can (when unsafely using it) so you're on your own getting that thing out of the way when you are installing the vents. I found I could get mine out with care and reinstalled when the vent was in place. Don't just leave this safety feature off. Or do it and enjoy your liberty. 5. In summary. Yes, these can work, but be aware of the consequences of your decisions What really is needed is an automatic vent that responds to atmospheric/temperature caused pressure changes. They exist, but who is up for a $100 gas can? Be careful.

Very easy install. Used a drill switched to LOW SPEED. Variable trigger works best. Locate a flat area away from curves in the plastic. Up and back as far as you can from the spout. Use VERY LIGHT PRESSURE on the drill point and VERY SLOW speed ! I did not have to empty the gas can. Just empty out a few gallons if yours is full. All 4 of my cans were full. I have 20 gallons (4 cans) on hand always and just refresh the gas every few months. So .. almost NO pressure and VERY SLOW speed on the drill point will yield a corkscrew sort of drill chip. When the tip breaks through, let the drill bit draw itself into the can around an inch then STOP! .. (sort of threads itself inward like a screw... provided you're NOT going to poke into the opposite side of the can! Then at the same time go full trigger and pull straight out. The entire plastic chips come out with the drill bit. (Should be 2 chips like the pictures before that last step of full trigger and pull!) NO PLASTIC inside the can at all!! The wire and valve is slightly tricky but not bad. Bend the wire almost, but not quite 90 degrees and bend at least a half inch. Works like a charm after you tighten the nut. Make sure you have 1 neoprene O-ring on the valve when you fish the wire into the can. Making sure the valve is slipped onto the wire pointing in the right direction. Don't pull really hard on the wire when pulling the threaded end through the drilled hole. Wiggle the wire around slightly while gently pulling it through the hole. Slip the other O-ring, then the cupped washer, then the nut onto the wire. Keep slight pulling pressure on the wire. Pushing the Oring over the threads then push the washer down then thread the nut down as tight as you can by hand. Pull the wire out of the valve only after you are CERTAIN the cupped washer has the dome of it UPWARD facing you! Once the wire is out, I used electrical tape around the threads to grip the valve when finally tightening the nut then (pretty snug with the wrench) slip the yellow cap keeper on and tighten the cap. After my second valve install, the last 2 cans it did took less than 15 minutes. Plan your hole location carefully FIRST! You'll thank yourself later! I emptied 4 gallons into my truck in about a minute. Works great!

These parts were exactly what I needed. The product description was accurate, shipping was quick, and packaging was good.