Dasher Deals Billet Aluminum Latch Pivot for First Gen Tacoma Tundra Rear Quarter Window (Pair)

These are an item in which you don't realize how important such a small item means to your truck. This is a great idea and for the owners of Toyota trucks a welcomed improvement on something that was poorly thought out. These are made out of aluminum and I would say they are lighter,30 times stronger than the plastic they replace. I have a 2001 tundra and I did have to drill out the holes to 11/64th. Worked great. If you follow the Video on You Tube, you can't go wrong. Removal and Installation was easier haven seen the video. Thanks for that. Product was great shipping great and price was good especially for an item that is better than what you would get from the Toyota parts desk.

Everyone who has an access cab Tacoma or Tundra is going to need these because the original factory plastic hinges on their will eventually become brittle and break. Read the tips that the numerous other reviewers have described and pick the method you feel most comfortable with and installation is a breeze. I had my broken plastic hinge replaced with the new metal hinge in under 15 minutes from start to finish. I found it easier to remove the screw that holds the latch bracket to the glass before attempting to remove and replace the broken plastic hinge. I used a screw thin enough to press the small metal pins holding the broken part out of the latch usong channel lock pliers. No hammer or punch needed. Dont lose the pins! You must reuse them since the new hinges do not ship with new pins. They are very small and if you drop them you may never find them. Then just make certain the hook on the new part faces the same direction as the old one did then press the small metal pins back in their respective holes using the pliers. Reattach the bracket to the glass with the screw you removed earlier and you are done. Easy peasy! My new window latch works as well as the original with no high pressure car wash leakage or wind noises.

If you read enough of these reviews you will see that a small minority of people have problems with the size of the existing pins fitting into the newly purchased aluminum replacement piece. I was unfortunate enough to be one of those people. If anyone is keeping track, 2001 Tundra. Long story short I needed to use an 11/64 drill bit to open the holes up to be the appropriate size for my pins. Before I found that bit of information, I started to try and install following the directions from the video. This resulted in one of my latches having the new aluminum piece in it and the pin having been hammered 1/2 way down and not going any further and not being able to retrieve it out as well. I wrote to Dasher Deals for help around 10pm and had a reply by 10am. Essentially telling me to step up the hole size I went and got another bit. Doing the 11/64 on the other aluminum piece I had I was able to open the holes and do a clean install in less than 15 minutes for one side. Being careful of the truck attached piece I let some WD40 soak on the pin for a minute and wiggled it around before trying to extract it. I used a punch as well but only used the side of the hammer from the inside of the doors as minimal amounts of force were needed and this prevented any deformation from occurring on that part. After getting one done correctly I went back to the stuck piece. Not being able to extract the pin and cleanly bore out the hole I decided to just try and go through the plastic latch piece as well. I did this very slowly and with a lot of lubrication. After feeling that I bored it out enough and cleaning the shavings off I was able to get that other side installed as well. Although the pin is not 100% in it still works perfectly and if I really wanted to I could cut the excess off. Through all of this I wrote to JJ, the seller, twice. Both times prompt replies and nothing but sorrow for my difficulty and offers to help. I won't go into detail everything JJ offered because it was so far above what I would have expected for a pair of $15 replacement parts. Despite being part of the 2% that are having problems with these, I would still recommend this for anyone that has their latches not working. If your pins are giving you a lot of trouble going back in, stop trying to force it and get an 11/64" bit to bore it out and then you will have the experience that JJ built these for. Also, if you have any problems be sure to write to the them as I would bet from my experience that every customer is treated like this and that JJ really believes in his product and guarantees it to the point where he could have lost money helping me but still was going to back up his product. I wish every transaction with a hiccup could be this good in resolution. Thanks again JJ!

This is an excellent product for the first generation 2003 extended cab Toyota Tacoma. One of my latch pivots broke so I bought a set of two but just replaced the broken one. Would be 5 stars if the instructions were better. The removal and installation procedure given in the video is not really the best. Here is what I did instead: Tools needed: Robo-grip pliers or similar with long linear jaw travel, some 6-32 pan head screws from 1/4" to 1" long and some 1/4-20 flat washers. 1) Open the window. 2) Place the shortest 6-32 screw with the head up on top of the pin that attaches the latch pivot to the truck body. 3) Hold 2 of the flat washers with the hole centered on the bottom of the pin. 4) With steady pressure, squeeze the screw, pin and washer stack until the screw pushes the pin into the bottom jaw of the pliers. 5) Repeat step 4 with the next longest screw and additional flat washers until you can remove the pin by hand. This steps gets progressively easier because the hole on top where the pin was will hold the screw in place. 6) Repeat steps 2-5 with the pin holding the latch pivot to the window. 7) Install latch pivot to window side as in the video but use the small 6-23 screw and one flat washer to avoid scratching your fancy truck.The video wasn't clear on the correct latch pivot orientation. But I could look at the latch pivot I wasn't replacing to see that the ridge on the latch pivot faces the back of the truck when the window is open. 8) Repeat step 7 for the pin that holds the latch pivot to the truck body. You can reverse the order of steps 7 and 8 if you want to. The method described above is better than that given in the video because hammer and punch can break or mis-align the truck body mounting point. The method in the video also requires opening the window much further that it would be normally which will cause stress on the hinge. I did the entire removal and installation on the truck without unscrewing the cover/handle from the window. It took about 20 minutes including the time to figure out how to do it. After the installation, I noticed that the repaired side did not "pop" when the widow is latched unlike the side I didn't fix yet. This might be because the cover/handle plastic is worn where it meets the latch pivot ridge when latching. We'll see how well the repaired side seals next time I go for a ride. Update. Drove the truck back and forth to work. No additional wind noise observed up to 70 mph from the side I fixed. I am glad to have the side I fixed to compare against the side with the original plastic factory latch pivot. The side with the factory latch pivot "pops" just before the window is closed, but the repaired side does not pop. Since I didn't notice any difference in wind noise between the two sides, I tried the dollar bill test. Simply close the window on a dollar bill and notice how much force it takes to pull the dollar bill through the closed and sealed window. In my case, the force was the same between the side I repaired with the aluminum latch pivot and the side with the original plastic pivot. I repeated the test with the dollar bill in a few different positions and noticed no difference. So the seal quality is the same even though the repaired latch does not "pop" before the window is closed.

I was astonished how easy this was to do.. I simply used a very small Philips head screwdriver on the small rod inserts on the broken latch I am replacing. I used the screwdriver and a hammer to knock the pin out of the old latch. I used pliers to pull it out the rest of the way. once both pins were out for the left window.. I used the hammer to put the new latch on.. make sure you are hammering the latch in the right direction... you can try to close the latch to make sure it looks like it would work or look at your other window if you forget.. they were tough to hammer in, WD40 would have helped probably.. but then the window fit tight and locked perfectly. I have been driving with duct tape on the latches for 2 years... so happy this product is available!!

Excellent fit and finish! I don't know why toyota didn't just do this in the first place! The window's open and close like new and should last the life of the truck! I hadn't used the rear windows in sometime and when I opened both of them the plastic arm just fell apart! So, I ordered these up and they work like a champ and I would recommend them to any Tacoma or Tundra owner with the same window problem! Go Go!

I got 2 of these, to fix both sides on my Tundra. One was installed easily, but the other side had a very small hole. I had to drill that piece and -on my fault- ended up with a very large hole and the latch wouldn't hold in place. Right now, I have a OEM latch on the left side, and the fixed one on the right. The one that came fine, is still holding on like a champ.

Awesome replacement for the OEMs that broke years ago! Having read some of the reviews, I was concerned about the fit and difficulty in replacing them without damaging the latch itself. It was no problem! Couple of tips: 1) As suggested by another reviewer, don't take the whole door panel off. Pop the top rear corner and a couple of clips down the side and across the top. Wedge something in there, and use a box end wrench to remove the 2 bolts. 2) Since the old pivot is likely broken on the "handle" end... bust it off there. Now that you can access the middle of the pin, use a pair of small pliers to squeeze/rotate/push the pin out of that handle.This prevents having to drive the pin out, with the handle taking some of the impact. 3) When replacing the shorter of the pins (in the window end of the new pivot), clamp the new aluminum piece in a vice, and tap the new pin into place. This will prevent stress on the plastic part as you push the pin into the new latch pivot.