Zurn Wilkins RK1-720A Repair Kits

My valve started leaking a year ago and I assumed I would have to replace the entire installation. I ended up finding this repair kit on Amazon almost by mistake while searching for the model number of my backflow preventer (Wilkins 720-A). Lots of good tips in these comments about installation and I'll try and capture them here for anyone reading this: 1. I did not use the lubricating jelly at all... I have no idea what it was suppose to go on, but my valve works fine so that's good. 2. After you take your plastic cap off, you might do what I did and stare at the valve and think: "This looks like a solid brass housing... how the hell do I get IN there?" - the brass top you are staring with the 3 screw pillars that the plastic top sits on... actually UNSCREWS out of the top of the valve housing. A super easy way to do it (that I got from these comments) is to take the screw driver you just used to remove those 3 top screws, law it sideways/between/across 2 of the pillars and use that leverage to unscrew that top. It comes right out. 3. The O-ring you need to replace is potentially smashed down into the channel around the inner lip of the brass housing right after you remove the top from Step #2... if you just removed the top, look around the inner lip of that brass housing, right under the threaded outside rim... you'll see it. You might need to dig it out with a little metal pick or something - mine was smashed into place and I had to dig at it before I tore part of it out then I could pull the rest out easy. 4. The spring was the only thing that gave me pause for a minute. It goes down into the valve, small/tapered side first and the big/open side actually pops down inside the top lip of the housing. To get it out, you basically need to contract the open end a bit so it clears that top lip then you can pull it out. I found the end of the sprint under the top lip, used a screw driver to sort of pop it out from under that lip and start to drag it out the top of the housing and as soon as I got a few inches of it past that little lip, POP, the rest of it came right out, no problem. Putting the new one in was basically... "just smash it all down through the hole past that lip and once it was in there, use the screw driver to straight out any coil overlap so the spring sat naturally". Hope that helps!

One morning the water pressure in my home was abysmal. I had a look around the property - this valve was leaking at my yard hose. Excellent replacement parts, happy I spent the extra money on OEM. No muss no fuss.

OEM rebuild/repair kit. Cost a little more than some alternatives that may work fine but I have only one valve at my home for my irrigation system that worked great for decades. When it failed, I opted to go with factory. The rebuild was quick and easy and it has been working like new again.

Perfect fit, came with all the necessary components to do a complete replacement. Everything fit perfectly in a wind well right down to the screw holes and new screws. Took about 10 minutes to swap everything out.

My local Home Depot didn't have this part in stock and couldn't tell me when it would be available, so I ordered it online and it worked perfectly. If you try to replace the entire valve, it's around $90 for "parts". This was a very cost effective alternative, came with very clear instructions and was very easy to install. Anyone that can use a screwdriver and read can install this....so if you were educated by our public school system before they turned into a bunch of socialist propagandists and Obama Care drum-beaters, you'll probably be able to "get er done".