Timber Tuff Manual Log Splitter, Heavy-Duty Steel Wood Splitting Tool, Slide Hammer & Comfort Grip Handle for Firewood, Kindling, TMW-11, Green

I bought this to replace a similar product that I had used for 15+ years before it finally broke this year. So far, this product has done all I expected of it and it works very well. Very good value for the price. The only thing I am waiting on is its durability (based upon other reviews). I am trying to use it without abusing it ... to reduce the risk of it failing. But so far I am delighted.

Wow. This thing is awesome. I've bought hundreds of products from amazon over the years and this is the 1st time I've really felt compelled to write a review. I use it to trim down logs that are too fat for my fireplace (I buy split wood but often the pieces are too large in diameter to really get a good burn and flame in my fireplace). After breaking my back and slaving over a splitting maul outdoors in the cold all winter, I can now produce the same results in my garage with a fraction of the effort. 3 or 4 slides and the log cracks like an egg. Very easy, very fast. Some people have been commenting that it's quite the workout...maybe a little if you're using it for a while, but it's nothing compared to slinging an 8 lb maul like I was. See my tips below for proper usage to save yourself some energy. This tool is amazingly simple, and frankly I'm surprised that something like this wasn't invented long ago. I'm sure people would have loved to have this thing around in the lincoln log days. Tips for usage: 1. USE A CHOPPING BLOCK. It should be about 12" high, depending on your height (I'm 5'7"). If you place the logs on the ground, you will be "hunched over" and it will put a great deal of strain on your lower back, as it is pretty heavy. At the bottom of the slide, your hands should be no lower than your waist. You wouldn't place a log on the ground when using a splitting maul, right? Same concept. 2. Hold the wedge and tap a couple times into the log to get it set. Then slam it and it should split pretty quickly. 3. Pick the tool up by the bottom wedge, as you would raise a maul by the head, because this is the heaviest part. Otherwise it's like raising a maul by the end of the handle-- poor leverage. This really pays off if you're using it for a while.

Timber Tuff is one of several name-branded sellers of these devices. I have 3 from different sellers. All are constructed similarly and operate on the same principle as a post hole driver. The vertical slide hammer action the drives the wedge into the log. This tool is incredible and inexpensive.. 25-35 bucks if you look around. I recommend 2 for greatest versatility. I use them with a log splitter to finish cross-grain splits. Quickly and easily free seized wedges. Will split anything you would use a conventional steel wedge on-- but easier, less body wear, and almost fun. On big stuff, I score the face with a chainsaw to make a groove to set the wedge tip into. Then hammer away. I use a second splitter once a crack is defined. Together, they make fast work of 24" oak rounds. Even drives through knots. Reverse the handle action and you can retrieve the wedge if jammed. Try that with the conventional wedge. Extend the handle up to create a good pry bar effect. Especially useful to spread knitted splits. Once you learn to use this tool and exploit the versatility, it will replace your wedges, sledge, maul, axe and a lot of sweat. I'm a 66 yr. old puny guy who manually harvests and processes about 4 cords of wood per year. Now the products. They are not all alike. Northern sells the best, slightly heavier duty, better welds, and a superior lock nut mechanism. Timber Tuff and Harbor Freight sell an identical, less sturdy unit. Principal complaint is the lock nut is tapped through the channel steel handle. I ripped one out, stupidly, by operating the tool in place. YOU MUST REMOVE THE LOCK NUT during use. Put it in you pocket or buy a couple of spare 8 mm bolts. The Northern tool has a retainer nut welded to the tap hole. All work well so far. I've put them to the test. The weld joints will tell the test of time. But any that fail can be repaired easily. The hammer handle is another point of potental weakness. With repeated hammering, the end of the handle must be a thick and securely welded. I have blown out the back of cheap post hole drivers after some use. Again, if this design fails, re-weld will fix it. My reccommendation: 1) Northern 2) Others

Do the gob weel,good quality,fast shipping.

The first thing to get used to and manage is how noisy it is when hammer meets anvil to split. Works very well but on behalf of other campers ensure your work is done during the day.

I'll need to give it a work out when the temperature goes down. Above freezing on cherry wood it's a real workout. It's also a little hard if you've got any joint pain in the hands, elbows, shoulders to deal with. Better than an axe though. Certainly worth the price.

It was not big enough for my job

works great for me and my medical condition and for my wife. easy to use