EVANS Cooling Systems EC53001 High Performance Waterless Engine Coolant, 128 fl. oz.

I use this coolant in my 2009 Jeep Rubicon 3.8 and my 2006 Dodge SRT8 Magnum 6.1. Both engines run just fine. I have gone 3+ years in the Jeep and only had the Magnum since October of 2016 and both run perfect temperatures. Everyone in the Dodge LX community knows how 6.1 overheat. I do not run a tuner so My fans are stock. I have the original stock radiator and I have no problems overheating. I believe the hottest I see is 209 then the fans come on and I jump RIGHT BACK DOWN to 190-ish. I can drive it 150 miles to see my dad and I can use my bare hand to take the cap off of the radiator. My system is always less than 3 PSI pressure. ANYONE who says it does not work did not perform the conversion correctly. You can't have water in your system. I used Evans prep fluid also. When I did my flush prep and fill I changed out my heater core with a new one, new recovery tank, washed out my RAD and blew it out with air and let it dry out. Changed ALL my hoses and even installed a new water pump. I also did the timing chain so I would not have to tear into the front end ever again. I blew out the engine with air and even jacked up my car on its side and back to make sure all the water is out.... I used the provided test strips and I had the best color I could have so I know I was running less than 3% water. I had a gallon of fluid left over so I drained just about a gallon for good measure and added the final gallon. This stuff rocks. NEVER needs replacing. If something does happen to a hose or pump all you have to do is capture fluid from the radiator drain valve and store it in 2 liter soda bottles then put the caps on. I have 10 2liter bottles that I have washed out and have the caps for. What ever happens I will drain the necessary amount of Even into the 2 liter jugs and and fill them up all the way to the cap. Tighten the cap. When I put the fluid back in I will pour it back in using a coffee filter to remove any sediment. I know guys with 800HP HEMIs that run 9's use this stuff. It is good stuff. Things to think about. If you do not use a thermostat you are allowing to much flow. Any antifreeze fluid needs to spend enough time going through the radiator so it can pass flumes so you can have the proper amount of heat exchange. Never cap off your hoses to the heater core. Buy enough hose to loop back into the water pump. Make sure your bottom hose does not collapse when you rev the engine. When this happens you will see the fluid in your recovery tank go low then rise back. Don't jack the reviews because you might have other issues. This is good stuff. Also I called them up and they stayed on the line with me for an hour so I can pick their brain about this stuff. Really nice people. Call them if you are having doubts. I did and I have no cooling issues.

Boilover protection is superb so no more worries about loosing coolant if your engine overheats. Freezing protection is good for most U.S. locations. Costs up to 8-10 times as much as regular antifreeze but it can be found on internet at 4-5 times the cost of antifreeze. Additional costs include removing system of ALL water if you don't have a fresh engine rebuild. If you are traveling you should bring some along because you may have difficulty finding any along the route. The closest place to me that carries it is a 30 to 45 minute drive in normal traffic and at highest cost. If you loose any coolant and add water instead, you will have to purge the entire cooling system and replace with new coolant to restore its effectiveness. Despite the negatives it is a good product and provides that added overheating protection you need. Most important is that you overheat you can continue on fort a while without fear of boiling your coolant out. I know some people who use it in all their vehicles. I am undecided if it is worth it for me now that previous cooling problems are solved. I would recommend this if you have an RV, tow heavy loads, climb a lot of steep hills, or any other thing where you will strain your cooling system temporarily.

This coolant seems to work very well in my diesel 7.3L power stroke. I do have to keep an eye on the shop I have the oil changed at. They keep wanting to add water to the system.

I recently switched to EVANS Coolant EC53001 High Performance Waterless Coolant for my car, and let me tell you, it's been a game-changer. My engine runs smoother and cooler than ever before. No more worries about overheating during those long drives. Plus, the 4-gallon pack is a great value for the price! 🌟The only downside I've noticed is that it can be a bit tricky to find in stores, so I had to order it online. But honestly, it's a minor inconvenience considering the benefits. Overall, I'm super pleased with this coolant. If you want to keep your engine in top shape, this is definitely the way to go! 👌🔧

Excellent. I’ve had it on my Jeep for years. This is to replace a batch with 8 or ten years of use.

While a bit pricey, the performance is excellent. Longevity is nearly infinite. Seriously recommend upgrading all other cooling components so not to lose this investment on the concrete due to a leak.

I have a 51 Mercury v8 flathead and it was overheating when in idle, so after reading about Evans I tried it and , WOW ! That took care of the problem no more overheating. Thanks Evans .

I'm running Evans in two Honda Civics with the goal of reducing intra-cooling system pressures. The Evans alternative to conventional anti-freeze won't boil unless reaches 375F, and, of course if it ever did, you'd already have experienced catastrophic failure... In normal operation, it creates no steam pressure and thus will not pass thru my 16 psi radiator caps - UNLESS the coolant level is too high in the top of the radiator tank. While it doesn't create steam pressure, it does create hydraulic pressure, which is to say that the liquid will expand by (they tell me) about 7% when it heats up to say 200F. If it got filled up to the top of the radiator neck, the expanding fluid will push through the pressure cap and go into the overflow reservoir - from which it will NOT get sucked back by the differential in pressures that moves regular coolant back and forth. If you did fill up the radiator tank, the Evans will overflow until it finds its own level inside of the radiator top tank. In the case of my vehicles, one found its level approximately 0.5" below the inner flange of the neck; the other leveled out at about 0.75" below... (Normally, I run coolant right up to the reservoir overflow tube, so this Evans characteristic was initially puzzling and quite different.) For my stock performance vehicles - which never heat up unless there has been a systems failure - the merits are as follows... First, I'm hoping that the lack of steam pressure build-up will mean that the cheapo plastic radiator tanks that Honda uses will no longer explode at the seams. Ditto the coolant hoses. (Whether multiple previous failures have been due to internal pressure, or expansion-contraction fatigue is uncertain, but I'm confident that the risk of failure using Evans is substantially lower. Additionally, I like that: the coolant is non-toxic to pets and it supposedly will never age out and allow internal corrosion. A bonus on Civics like mine is that those systems only have a cooling system capacity of 1.1 gallons, so the additional cost of running Evans is insignificant, especially when compared to the price of blown head gaskets that can result from cooling system failure. The merits for motorcycles should be similarly appealing. On my classic truck powered by a SBC, the merits would be the same but would also include an ability to continue conducting heat out of the motor even if the system spirals up into the anxiety inducing 240-260F range where coolant cavitation can cause internal hot spots that can result in engine failure. That SBC system uses in excess of 5 gallons of coolant, so I'm waiting for the next coolant change cycle before making the switch, but nevertheless, even at 5 x $45 (plus the prep fluid costs), the cost is modest when compared to the costs of catastrophic engine failure that is more likely to occur when using conventional coolant... On the conversions that I've done, after the preliminary coolant drain, I opened the heater core valves and removed the engine thermostats and used a small shop vac to blow coolant out of the systems. I probably ran the shop vac for 30 minutes, but might have gotten by with less time. Regardless, my subsequent coolant "refractometer" tests showed that I had successfully reduced the water content of the systems below 1% water, which is well below their recommended maximum level of < = 3% water.