48V/72V 2000W Electric Bicycle Brushless Motor Speed Controller for E-Bike & Scooter

Just hooked this up last night and works great. I have this in my Coleman RT100 I converted to electric. I hit about 30 MPH now. I installed the whole thing without looking at the instructions! lol After, I learned the self-study white cables work great if it's in reverse, like mine was initially. Careful, when you plug in the two white cables to each other, it turns on instantly. If it is going the right way, then unplug the two white cables and you are good. If not, keep it plugged in, turn it off, then back on again, until it does go the right way. Then unplug. I got the 2000W my motor needed! This worked fine with the new thumb throttle I bought, and the 2000W Kun Ray motor. Oh, and the extra red power cable needs to connect to the on/off switch, or key.

Still has a lot of throttle lag and is only 45 amps ( not bad since I shunt modded it) acceleration is better than any stock e bike but still not close to what I see with the more expensive controllers . It’s ok for what it costs .

buenisima. buena calidad

Couldn't ever get it to work.Maybe it's just me , but the instructions are unclear , and I could not figure it out

I used this to replace the melted down controller for a Vevor 1800w 48v brushless motor kit. This controller, using the same throttle and three-speed control switches on my scooter, provides finer throttle control, harder acceleration and even less noise from the motor. What's not to like? It also allows for reversing motor rotation without cutting wires. The only gotcha is the small gauge red lockout wire. This needs current direct from the positive terminal on your battery for the motor to run, and the instructions don't make this clear. I used an automotive relay to send 48V+ to this wire. Works fine.

It's ok but it just doesn't last as long as I hoped. You don't get enough riding time. By the time you get down the street holding the throttle, the battery is already dying. Once you pull the throttle it takes so much battery power at the same time and that's what kills the battery, so it very much takes away from riding time. The battery that we use is just about 72v or maybe slightly over, and it still pulls so much battery power once the throttle is pulled. The battery meter disappears soon as you pull on the throttle and then once you let go, the battery meter then reappears. So, it's only enough to get you at least 2 very short rides and then it starts to slow the battery down instantly. But if I were to just baby the throttle then maybe it might last a little longer. But who wants to just 'baby' the throttle? lol! Now we are looking for a stronger battery though. Maybe something a little bit stronger than 72v that can handle all the power coming from the speed controller to help give a little more long-lasting riding time.

So far, so good with this controller. It is more powerful compared to the replacement and larger in size. Ive purchased several controllers and while this one is more expensive, its power certainly justified the cost. Standard connections mostly but some wires are unique. For example I’m not sure what is required to make the alarm work. Perhaps this could be reused to trigger a light and or buzzer if the batt or motor gets hot or under volted. —— Short version is this Bldc controller is powerful and easy to use - we’ll see how it does over time

I bought this to replace the 20A controller I had been using with my Crystalyte 409 hub motor. I got lucky and the motor and hall wires color all matched perfectly. So far the controller has been great. I didn't use most of the features of the controller and am basically only using throttle, with a key-switch. Now I just have to get a more capable battery, to see the benefits of the more powerful controller. BTW, I spray painted it with a flat black paint, and it looks great. I don't think it will hurt the cooling capability, as it's always cool after riding. UPDATE: The controller lasted two months of light use, and then completely died. I went back to my old controller that I've been using for many years. This unit turned out to be junk, and well beyond the return period.