10 in Bullnose Rabbet Plane

This rabbet plane has performed very well. I use it for picture frames. I rabbet out the part of the wooden frames where the artwork will actually sit. The iron takes an awesome edge (photo and video attached) and it cuts the rabbets well. This is a whole lot eas Now all that is given one big assumption--you properly tune up the plane. You will need to spend 4-5 hours sanding down the faces in order to flatten the plane. You will also need to hone the plane iron. This can be done inexpensively with a flat granite tile from home depot and some sand paper. As far as honing the plane iron I personally use the following diamond steel plates: Ultra Sharp II Diamond Sharpening Stone Kit - Coarse/Medium/Extra Fine along with a Trend U*DWS/HP/LS Honing Compound Leather Strop glued to a piece of wood with Green Chrome Oxide Compound, 6 oz. applied to the strop. This produced the edge you see in the photo and the video attached. Dimensions of the plane can be seen in the photos attached. Pros: *Price is cheap *With tune up it performs very well Cons: *Took a while to flatten (-1/2 a star) Additional Considerations: I cannot state how important tuning the plane is. You will have a night and day difference of performance if the plane is not tuned. Look at Paul Sellers videos on tuning up old planes. That will get you on the right track to having a great plane at a cheap price. Overall: 4.5/5 stars (>=.5 rounds up, <.5 rounds down) => 5 stars If you have any further questions regarding the product in my review please leave a comment below and I will get back to you as soon as possible.

I am pleased with this plane. After lapping and honing, it did a good job cutting both long grain and cross grain rabbets. Out of the box, the machining of the iron, sole, sides, depth stop, and fence was rather coarse. The scratches looked like 40 grit or so. The sole was dished front to back and side to side. Lapping on a belt sander at 120 grit flattened the front to back curve, but left a cup from side to side around the mouth. The cup profile showed a parabolic outline convex on the fence/depth stop side of the sole. Since most of the work will be done on that side of the sole, I did not lap out the entire cup, but got the first 5/8" flat which will cover most of the rabbets I need (for now.) The depth stop was so rough out of the box that it actually marred the surface of the test workpiece. Lapping it to 120 grit fixed that easily. I did not see any marring from the fence, but since it was as rough as the sole and depth stop, I lapped it smooth as well. The iron has a precise, but coarsely ground 25 degree bevel, but the back was not very flat. On the bright side, the back was dished in the center so honing it to get a 3/16" flat behind the edge gave the polished edge the profile of a Japanese chisel -- polished on 3 edges, machining marks in the center. Honing the 30 degree secondary bevel proved a challenge. The shape of the iron, with the tang narrow and offset, did not fit well in my Eclipse style honing guide. I managed to grip the iron in the chisel slot, but the curve where the tang met the main blade prevented setting the iron with enough extension to hone at 30 degrees. I had to settle for something like a 27 degree secondary. When the iron was sharp and the sole lapped, I tested on a scrap pine board. The long grain rabbet cut easily and smoothly, with no marring from the fence or depth stop. I then turned the nicker and cut a cross grain rabbet. Wow, that was nice. I had never used a proper cross grain plane before, and this rabbet convinced me of the value of a nicker. The fibers on the end grain shoulder were cut fairly smoothly, and the planed shoulder was much smoother than I have ever been able to make with other planes. Bottom line: This is not a premium plane. It requires considerable effort to tune, but when tuned, it does a good job of rabbeting edges as it was designed to do. Its performance would have disappointed me if in had cost over $100, but for under $75 it is a good buy.

Read the other review and almost did not buy this, but for the price it was well worth the risk. I am glad I made the purchase. The plane cut well right out of the box. I was able to plane a beveled edge top for an entry table from maple, with no major tuning or sharpening of the plane. The bottom surface was and the edge guide were a little rough and oily, but a few passes over 220 grit sandpaper solved it to my liking. I was able to plane both cross gran and with the grain with little effort once I got the hang of the adjustment setiings for the blade depth that can be adjust while planing with upward or downward pressure from my thumb. All in all this is a very good plane thatbdoes the job and at a very affordable price, especially when I considered buying a vintage stanley 45. This did exactly what I needed. Very satisfied with my purchase.

I would give this plane a 3 as it comes. When it came from the factory the sole was extremely rough and the cutting spur was way to long. It took several hours of lapping to get the sole smooth, and with a little filing down, the cutting spur works fine. The plane works good and will no doubt last a lifetime. If you are willing to put a lot of elbow grease into lapping the sole and tuning up the plane, it will serve you well.

not good. when sharp, it does act as a plane, but the hole for the lever-cap/chipbreaker screw was misplaced, more with the standard station than the bullnose station. the lever cap cannot be removed without actually removing the screw, and because of the screw's poor location the cap cannot be tightened parallel with the cutting edge of the iron. the depth adjustment it too easy, and the iron will pop itself off the surface when using it on a harder wood. further, the depth adjustment range is smaller than the individual notches in the iron anyway, which largely means that at one setting, the iron cannot be retracted enough, and at the next setting down, the iron cannot be extended enough. a few sharpenings should sort this out, but that is an issue when the depth adjustment is an integral part of the iron and the adjustment is not large enough. the groove for the nicker is not deep enough for the nicker to lie flush with the side of the plane, which can lead to creep. and the iron does need to be filed down to match the width of the plane. the depth adjustment flange is attached directly over the nicker, which can be a problem if you decide to change the nicker's position. with a fair amount of effort, you can fix some of the issues and the plane will "work," but some issues, (misplaced lever cap screw) are insurmountable. definitely not one of the stanley toolworks' best efforts. with better fit and finish, (and one or two design changes, (location and nature of the nicker,)) I would like this plane, it is a good size and weight for the job. I have used this with finished work, and providing you make (a lot) of allowances for its limitations, you can do good work with it. but its probably worth spending the extra money for a better plane.

solid cast iron, I spent a few minutes putting a bevel on the cutter. I really like the way the blade adjusts using the lever. you can really tune it quickly to get that perfect shaving. The blade is about a 0.0315" wider than the sole of the plane but easy to grind off to make flush. The handle is great for stability and I have arthritis so it is very friendly.

After just a little bit of work an this thing was ready to go (lapping the base and sharpening blade). walls were 90* this plane has performed well in soft and hard woods. I've had it for almost a year now and have no complaints at all. Set it up right, be patient an learn how to use it right, you'll have a great tool you can pass on to your kids.

I bought two of these planes, one for me, one for my step son. Upon arrival, the nose on one of the planes was broken. One call to ZORO customer service and shipping label received. Replacement arrived within a couple of days. Previous reviewers had note inconsistency of quality on their purchases, so I gave them a pretty close inspection. One plane functioned correctly (I gave that one to my step son). On the second plane the blade depth adjustment was inadequate to adjust the blade for a fine shaving. I fixed this by filing down the end of the adjustment arm lever, witch increased the range motion of the blade. As I would do with any new (to me) plane, I lapped the sole and sharpened the blade. It only took about 5 minutes to achieve a perfectly flat sole. Ditto with the blade. At this point the plane works as it should.

Buen producto y eficiente se recomienda tuene buena calidad

Like any plane I've ever acquired,new or used,it needed a little bit of adjustment plus some time with the whetstone. For me this is always time well spent as it allows me to get comfortable with a new tool. The majority of the wood I use is pine,birch,poplar and cedar. It's what I can afford and readily available here. I've put a 30 degree micro bevel on the iron and haven't had a problem putting a rabbet on anything. I also have a moving filister plane from a modern maker which cost about five times as much. It's less awkward to set up and maybe looks nicer to some but the end result is virtually identical. I highly recommend this tool. It's a great value . You might spend more on an older used one that could be much more work setting up. If you are new to this type of woodworking this is a tool that will enhance all the skill sets you need to develop for hand woodworking.

Funciona bien pero se extraña la calidad de acabados tradicional de la marca Bailey-Stanley

casting a little rough but working surfaces all good

Aún para un cepillo de gama baja como este, considero que la calidad en sus componentes es muy pobre y requiere un exesivo trabajo de ajuste y calibracion para obtener buenos resultados al usarlo