Plastruct Plastic Weld w/applicator 2oz Bottle

"Glue" or "adhesive" is not the right word for this stuff. It is a solvent that makes the surface of the plastic gooey so the pieces stick together as if they were molded that way, so it welds the pieces together; thus the name Plastic Weld. I was looking at buying the Plastruct sheet assortment to make a case for my Raspberry Pi & 5" LCD when I saw this stuff listed as "frequently bought together". As soon as I saw it I knew I wanted it.I fully expected this to have a very annoying stench and knowing that "dung happens" (as the Feb 29 reviewer detailed), before I opened the bottle I took a small cardboard box & cut a hole in the top to use as an anti-topple stand for this stuff. As it turns out it doesn't stink any worse than the common "Testors"(TM) cement, but I still did the work in my garage to keep the smell out of the house.The instructions say to put the pieces together and then apply a "drop" of the solvent to the joint & it will wick into the joint. Well, apparently if you cut the pieces nice & straight & smooth the stuff can't wick into the joint OR else it just evaporated too fast in my cold garage, because the joints broke very easily if I did it that way. You can see in the image of the easily broken bond that the plastic was only bonded at the very edge of the joint, not all across it. What worked best for me was to put a bead of the liquid on the surface where I wanted to bond another piece & then press the other piece onto the bead (see photos of "lay a bead..." & "making a good bond"). I knew it was going to be good if a bit of plastic oozed from the joint. ;~)I tried this stuff on polycarbonate and polypropylene and it worked well on the polycarbonate but did not affect the polypropylene. And it didn't work on vinyl blind slats either. I got a good edge bond on a couple of "We'll send you a tote bag if you sign up" cards I got from AARP, but it did break when sufficiently stressed (see photos of "good bond"). You can see in the photo of the broken bond that the surface of the bottom piece is rough all across the width of the bond unlike the bond that broke easily. The ink or whatever they use for the coloring on the front face is impervious to this stuff, though--I had to scrape it off in order to bond to the front of the card.

I do some musical instrument repair work for friends sometimes, and a friend of mine brought over a wireless microphone that had gotten dropped and stopped working. Turned out to be a broken, plastic battery holder. The Plastruct Plastic Weld stuff saved the day!! This stuff is AMAZING!!! Where has it been all my life?! It's not a glue. It literally, chemically melts/fuses the plastic parts together, which forms a super strong bond. It's as if it was never broken or cracked at all! I've never seen anything like this, but have always thought it would great if something like this existed! And, now it DOES!! I love it!Procedure:I made sure the surfaces were clean, then brushed some of it on with the built-in applicator brush, quickly lined up the broken parts, and pressed them together for about 30 seconds. Then, after about a minute. It was pretty well bonded at that point, but I brushed a little more all around the seams, and pressed and held it for another 30 seconds for an even stronger bond. You can actually see where it chemically reacted and fused the plastic together! Amazing stuff! And, a little goes a long way, because it has a capillary action, whereby it creeps into all the gaps by itself. I'm going to get SO much use out of this! I'm super impressed!You can see in one of the photos where there's a white-ish bead around the seam where I used this stuff in the battery compartment of the microphone.One word of caution though; Make sure you use it with plenty of ventilation, and consider using some nitrile gloves. There is a cancer warning on the label, as well as warnings not to sniff it, or get it on your skin. I wore a mask, nitrile gloves, and had my workbench fan on high. I didn't smell anything, and had nothing on my hands. Being safe and taking care of yourself is a good thing.I HIGHLY recommend this wonderful stuff!!

Used Plastruct Plastic Weld solvent cement to weld this 3D printed helmet together. Printed this helmet in 7 pieces and used solvent to weld each piece together. Hold 2 pieces together and paint solvent on joint. It spreads into joint and melts the 2 pieces together. This is a fast way to tack weld your Plastic creations together. I then used plastic sheets across joints inside helmet with plastic binder epoxy for more strength. Would highly recommend this product as it is easy to use and clear directions are right on bottle. Make sure to give each joint time to fully cure. First time using this product. Helped my son build this for his Halloween costume.Putting this helmet together was a challenge as we had some flex on some of the 3D printed parts and had to cut some of the pieces after printed to get flush joints without gaps. Since this glue melts plastic together you need flush and tigh joints. Since this helmet was made to wear I reinforced the joints by epoxying plastic sheets over the joints

This product works exceptionally well on styrene plastic models the bond is excellent and almost instant. I have ordered this product twice before unfortunately this last time the lid of the bottle was not secured during shipping and half of the product leaked out and due to the no return policy I was not able to get a replacement.

I bought this Plastruct Plastic Weld specifically to assemble a bridge model (see attached pictures) since it was molded in black ABS plastic. All my other glues/cements on hand were geared toward styrene or were cyanoacrylates.And the model manufacturer explicitly recommended "Plastruct Plastic Weld" by name in their instructions.So imagine my surprise when the Plastruct Plastic Weld didn't hold the delicate parts together (not after a few seconds, not after minutes). The delicate pieces would just flopped over under their own weight when released. I might as well have been using water.So in frustration/desperation, I fell back to some on-hand Tamiya 87038 (an excellent product for its primary intended purposes) to assemble the first of the two bridge sections. But it was a long painful process as the parts "welded" very slowly and not very strongly with many repeat attempts.Then a light bulb went on "Read the instructions of the Plastruct Plastic Weld bottle" (the recommended step when all else fails). But alas, still no joy there either as it didn't say anything that I hadn't already tried. And it just reinforced that it was indeed intended for ABS and should be working.Then the second light bulb went on, "SHAKE IT UP". Bingo! The pieces bonded sufficiently in mere seconds where I could move on to the next piece quickly. I assembled the second bridge section in a tiny fraction of the time of the 1st one using the now-shaken Plastruct Plastic Weld. And the fully-set welds the next day were much stronger than those of the 1st bridge (which I subsequently went back and fixed up with Plastruct Plastic Welds).The Plastruct Plastic Weld also was easy enough to apply and it flowed well into joints via capillary action.The only real negative I encountered was that the in-bottle brush is quite fat. And although that somewhat depends on what you are welding, this is intended for scale model assembly after all. So it seems WAY too big (particularly in contrast to the excellent very-fine point of the Tamiya in-bottle brush). After all, I'm not trying to weld black ABS pipes for my house's toilet lines. For that, I go to Lowe's and get some Oatey's.I decided not to take away any stars from Plastruct Plastic Weld for not including SHAKE BEFORE USE in their instructions/label although I was really tempted. This may be the issue behind several of the negative reviews that I have read about it being ineffective. So please, Plastruct, update your label.

There is no bonding element whatsoever. It's not tacky and it's very viscus. It behaves almost like a solvent or a cleaner. Completely useless.

Perfect! Can't beat the price. Believe me! I've spent hours looking thru different sites. This size with 2 magnetic doors, unbeatable! Yes, you have to assemble it but it's easy and very sturdy.

Other than some rare situations where I need a toluene-based glue with gap filler mixed in (classic airplane model glue in a tube), this is my go to for plastic repairs. I've fixed everything from the dome light's clips in a 1994 Volvo wagon to a broken plastic wall switch outlet box in our house to a 1972 British car's cracked ashtray - all in just in the past month. If its typical styrene or type plastic, this will bond it.I find if you need extra strength bonding, apply additional layers on one or both sides of broken area after first bonding the two parts back together. This is a solvent, so it will melt an additional layer of surface plastic over the crack to help prevent it from returning.Short of using a hot plastic repair gun, which isn't always practical in odd or tight spaces or with thinner plastics, this is the best fix. I can't tell you how many bottles of this stuff I've used over the years, but its been many.