ORXPLUS Tools Deburring External Chamfer Tool, Tungsten Blade, Deburring Drill Bit, Remove Burr Tools Suitable on Stainless Rod, Thread and Pipe for Fit 1/8"-3/4"(3mm-19mm)

The de-burring cup is an actual 3 point cutting tool that utilizes HSS to shave the end of bolts, bar stock, etc... so, if you come at it cranked up to 11 and expect good results you’re going to do some damage, or have a bad day. Anyone who’s drilled metal, or used a single point cutting device (lathe, fly cutter) knows that speed and feed is the name of the game. Start on a slower speed, and apply generous pressure, and after a few times you’ll get the feel for it and be able to yield phenomenal results. I’ve used it on mild steel, and stainless, and have had excellent results. I don’t like that you can’t replace the HSS inserts, but I realize for that option you’d end up having to completely redesign the device. Also, the little indented areas where the chips are supposed to collect does get somewhat clogged, but I think this feature is more like a chip breaker, not an area for shavings to reside long term. I ended up using a metal pick I have to clear them, and it worked great. So, moral of the story, if you’re a wood working screw jockey who expects tools to yield to your will you’re going to have difficulty with this cup. But, if you come at it from a machinist perspective, you’ll wonder why you wasted money on the $10 cheapo infomercial style debuting cups. The chamfer I LOVE!! I’ve had issues with the Irwin/harbor freight chamfering tools. This is the solution to your desire to create a chamfer, but again, name of the game is low and slow until you find a good speed and pressure to apply. Be thoughtful, and you’ll love it. Buy once, cry once boys... I know, terrible phrase, but it’s true.

I had to cut down the studs on my rear axle as the ARP ones were too long to use with closed lugs nuts. The was able to go through all ten studs and chamfer down the sawed off end on all ten studs. I used a regular cordless drill set to the lower speed setting (1 instead of 2 for my older Dewalt) and the tool worked its magic on the ends. I'm not sure how many more studs it would have in it, but I know that it went through ten hardened studs with great results and still has material left in it for more work down the road. It's in my drill bit drawer now for use on the next round of all-thread, studs, or bolts I need to chop down and chamfer. The pictures show the first stud and the last stud I used this on as well as what the starting point was for each stud.

What a surprise to use a cheap tool that actually works. Cuts like a hot knife through butter. Nuts thread on perfectly. Used on m6 and m10 bolts.

Works well once you figure out the secret. When I first got this bit I was pretty upset It would chatter like a jackhammer and leave a horrible wavy jagged surface finish on the parts. It took a bit of trial and error to finally figure out that if I set my drill to the slow mode and basically use my whole body weight into the drill I would get very reliably smooth cuts. At that point I was pretty impressed, the surface finish is near mirror like most of the time. The only issue I have found is the small channels that are supposed to curl the chips and eject them sometimes will hold on to the aluminum. this may not be an issue with steel but with aluminum it definitely means a lot of manually clearing those chips with your finger or some sort of pick. I bought this bit specifically to chamfer 5/8 in 6061 aluminum for one of the parts we make, at this point we have done a few hundred of these pins and the bit works like a champ. Quite honestly with a hand drill and our custom soft jaws clamping the pin, chamfering, flipping, and chamfering the other side is so dang quick I'm not quite sure you could chamfer these parts in a manual lathe or mill anywhere as fast as this process. All in all I would recommend this product. But if it doesn't work like intended play around with your drill pressure and speed.

Great tool for tapering the ends of all thread rod, bolts, solid rod, steel & copper pipe (aluminum pipe is tricky). As others have said, DO NOT USE AN IMPACT DRILL!!! A small hand held battery drill is best, start at low speed and press lightly until desired taper is achieved. Hit it straight on, do not walk it around in a circle. If there is a burr on the work piece, say a cut off tip, grind or file it off first. This will keep the tool from giving you an off-center taper. I’ve used mine a dozen times w/o problem, still sharp.

good

HAD A FEW DAMAGED THREADS I COULDN'T USE A DIE ON. ATE THROUGH THE HARDEN STEEL BUT CHIPPED A BLADE. THEY REPLACED UNIT. SHOULD BE REALLY GOOD ON SOFTER STEEL. USE A DRILL AND NOT AN INPACT DRIVER PER INSTRUCTIONS.

Worked as described but wore out quickly. We ended up finding a better tool.