InstaMorph Reusable Moldable Plastic | Thermoplastic Beads, Meltable Polymorph Pellets | Lightweight Modeling Compound For DIY Crafts, Sculpting, Cosplay Accessories | Temporarily Repair | White, 12oz

If you think Instamorph will just 'read your thoughts' and simply fall into line with whatever you shakily desire to make ... than you'll be disapointed. If on the other hand you 'catch the vision' of how to work with the hot plastic you will simply be overjoyed. One of the best craft examples to exemplify this incredible materials workability TO THOSE WITH SKILL is the making of a denture plate. This project in and of itself will immediately nullify those silly reviews that claim the product will not do detailed molding, cools too fast, is toxic, can't make a good upper plate liner, or the host of other silly negative remarks ... probably from excited and non skilled crafters . Probably every trick necessary to understand this stuff will be learned in making a bottom denture. I wear a 4 toothed bridge that has 2 holes to fit around my existing lower teeth. Here are some facts to greatly help you enjoy this marvelous plastic. 1. 'Levels' of meltability ... While the initial first melting of the beads needs to be 140 to 150 degrees, the first rough forming of the shapes desired after cooling can be worked just like a sculpter uses clay. No artist just molds a bust in clay from one quick pressurized push of his hands to form a face or entire head and neither does a skilled crafter using Instamorph. You can dip the entire project rough shape into boiling water for only 1 to 3 seconds and even though the material stays bright white, still it is workable to press into the subtle curves and edges you desire. When you understand that you needn't wait for total clearness of the material nor must you ruin perfect parts to reform a different section of the project you'll 'catch the vision' of how to avoid too much heat, have continued workability all the way up to , as I did ... work the material even as it sat in my mouth without burning yourself. To experiment with it's workability melt some beads and form it into a small 'superball' and let it cool. Now dip only one half into boiling water and leaving the white side totally alone, mold the ball into round on one side and flat on the other. this will let you understand 'spot' melting and just light softening techniques. 2. thinness of the material does not make it weaker after cooling. There might be a tendency to make a project too bulky because you dont understand how tough this material is when cooled ... the holes in my project for example are nearly 'see through' where my real teeth must pass through yet it's impossible to break or tear these thin walled holes. So yes, delicate projects like a sailing ship with sails and guy lines CAN be done. 3. Many warn against using the product for car interiors because of the extreme heat that might be built up inside a vehicle on a summer day. Thin delicate molds would soften, but thicker and bulkier ideas that required at least a tablespoon or two of beads will get a bit 'rubbery' but not totally 'deform' as claimed. Test this by making a rod about 2 inches long and about as thick as a cigarette and press it into a second piece of plastic about as round as a nickel and just a bit thicker. then place it on your dashboard in summer heat to see it shouldn't become droopy nor deform, and any slight rubberyness will disappear as soon as the car is brought back to passenger comfort level. 4. making holes .... if for example your project needs two quarter inch holes through it, dont just punch that size through the hot material as it might deform the material to the left, right, and bottom of the project. for any hole, dip a screwdriver, punch, ice pick or similar tool in boiling water and you can 'spot melt' delicate detail areas. 5. controlling color pellet intensity ... the optional color pellets are incredibly brilliant. So, for example how would one make a light pink project from the intensely dark cranberry color that just one pellet produces ? It's easy ! never add any color pellets to your project mix when you care about color intensity. Make instead strips or circles of the pure color. I flatten these 'new' pellets into cuttable disks by using a drinking glass to flatten every new color disk to an equal thickness. Now when you need a more pastel color than the color pellet produces, add small cut pieces fron your color disk to your clear project mix to create much lighter hues that you can increase color intensity to gradually by slowly kneading in another piece of color strip.

My husband broke both of his car keys (the hole you use to put it on the keyring snapped). Initially I had fixed it with Sugru, but that snapped apart after a week. I came across this and figured it would do the trick because it was rigid once done. It was a breeze to use. The repaired keys are functioning perfectly and seem more than strong enough to stand the test of time (this time around). The only thing that slightly concerns me is that we live in a hot climate and the repaired key might deform if left in the car. Then again, if he leaves his key in the car, this could be the least of his problems. It is something to keep in mind with other things though. When the outside temperature is 110 degrees, it could easily get hot enough inside the car to re-melt the plastic (but, of course, when we're in the car, the AC is running so the key will be fine). So, fine for the key, but I would not use it to fix a knob on the car radio. I didn't immerse in hot water to soften, that seemed like too much of a bother. I have a heat gun that's for crafting (as advertized it is for melting embossing powder for stamps). It's heat power is somewhere between a hairdryer and the type of heat gun you'd use to strip paint from wood. I made a little "bowl" out of some parchment paper (a kitchen staple)and set the heat gun on the pellets until they turned clear (this took just a few seconds), then waited a few seconds for the plastic to cool and molded away. Doing it this way it is also REALLY simple to soften and remold very specific areas, and to soften and mold very small amounts of pellets at a time. Flip a switch, the heat is instant, and you don't have to worry about keeping a bowl of water hot or sitting there watching for it to come to a boil, it's just always ready. You just have to make the parchment bowl/ pocket deep enough to keep the pellets from blowing away when you put the heat gun to them.

This is a great product and the other reviews focus on its potential uses. I want to offer some suggestions for working with the product. All temps are Fahrenheit. 1) Heat water to at least 150 deg. (I usually heat to 160-170 deg. because the water will cool quickly and the hotter the water, the quicker the product softens. I use an instant temperature probe thermometer to check the temperature and I use long surgical tweezers to remove the Instamorph from the water). The instructions say heat to 140-150 degrees and never above 150 degrees, but that is for safety/liability reasons - stating you could be burned if you try to mold the stuff that is too hot. However, the hotter you get it, the longer the working time, and the hotter the water will be if you need to re-emerge the product. So, work with the hottest water you can handle, but BE CAREFUL!! 2) Mold product in warm/hot water. As others have stated, the product has a short working time. As soon as you remove it from the heated water it starts to cool, and cool/cold hands don't help. So, take a bucket or container just large enough to be able to mold the material with both hands and fill it up with water that is as warm/hot as you can stand, without hurting yourself. Then, after removing the InstaMorph from the heated water, put it in the bucket and mold it there. This will extend the working time of the product considerably, and it won't take as long to bring it back to pliable temp. once the material cools down. 3) If the bucket of water won't work for you, at least warm your hands before working with the softened product. Run warm water over your hands or hold something warm prior to removing the product from the heated water to help extend the working time. 4) Heat the tools or working surface. If you are going to use tools to shape or sculpt the material, put the tools in warm/hot water. Also, if you are using a plate or some other surface that transfers heat as a base for shaping the material, place it in hot water or heat it some other way. Pressing your item against a cool plate to give it a flat surface will cause it to cool and harden quicker. However, if you want to flatten something and have it set quickly, do not use this tip. 5) You can use a hair dryer to soften all or part of the product. You may find that you have created something that is close to what you want, but only the edges need to be changed/softened. Take a hair dryer and using warm or hot air point it at the area you want to change. You will see the area you are heating start to go from white to clear. When the area you want is clear, just shape it how you want. This will allow you to fix part of the item without softening the whole thing, and gives you an alternative when you can't put the Instamorph back in water. Also, this is great for softening rough edges. 6) Inversely, you can use cold water to harden the created item quickly. You might not want to wait for the Instamorph to harden every time you work with it - especially if you are making small changes to the edges repeatedly. If you have the shape you want, and you don't have to worry about exposure to water, simply run cold tap water over your creation and it will harden very quickly. 7) Adding the color chips (sold separately) makes the product harder, and harder to work with, and usually requires using slightly higher temperatures to work with and for softening. However, adding color is advantageous if you are going to be using the created item in an area where the heat comes close to the softening point of uncolored Instamorph because it raises the softening/melting point, and creates a harder overall product. Like I said, this is great product. Finding ways to extend the molding time just makes it that much easier to work with. I discovered these tips through trial and error. If you know of other ways to help others improve the working time, please comment on this, or post your own review. I hope this has been helpful.

I used this to make the base of my Loki head piece. I also used this to make the that curved piece at the top of Loki's staff, it kind of looks like a arc'd metal spring? That piece thats right under the little orb. As other reviews have described, this stuff is great, however...it IS a pain in ass to work with. You Must work quickly ESPECIALLY if you are in a cooler room. If it is summertime and you have the AC or fans running, I recommend turning them off while you shape it. I noticed it didn't cool as fast when it was room temperature in the house or warmer. Based on the instructions and previous reviews here are some things I noticed/did in comparison: 1) I have an electric stove (takes forever to heat anything compared to gas stove). So I didn't boil water, I used those instant hot water machines? I don't know the technical name. Someone else mentioned they microwaved it. I tried this as well when my water got too cool to keep the plastic clear (aka, in shape-able mode). If your project is small enough to keep in whatever container you use to heat the beads, and the container is SAFE to put in the microwave, I would recommend to just heat that bitch up in the microwave. My size of a project only required about 40 seconds on high temp. Then just covered it, and let it sit in the microwave for 2 minutes before I took it out to use it. quicker than re-boiling. 2) If you have your nails painted BE WARNED that when you are molding the plastic, it will stick to your polish and it is kind of hard to get it off. you will end up with random spots of the polish on your mold. But you can cut/scrape it off when it gets a bit cooler. I painted my project so it didnt matter for me. This product is VERY adhesive to most light materials, especially other plastic, so do not mold this stuff in a cluttered area. 3) I read that you could cut this stuff or trim it ect. I did not find this to be entirely true. Even when it is still warm/clear, its kind of a bitch to cut. Only a sharp small fancy kitchen knife seemed to work, 4) The GOOD acrylic paints (like the ones in tubes, not the containers with caps)don't stick well after you paint this plastic after its completely cooled (which takes a few hours). So make sure you seal it with something. Overall, I would only use this for small projects in the future.

If you’re looking for something affordable to quickly make props, costume pieces, or a replacement part, this is the kind of product to use. I have used this for multiple projects with the greatest ease; from packaging to product, InstaMorph is a great tool to add to your craft supply! Packaging and Strength The plastic comes in a screw-lid container big enough to hold any leftover pieces you may have from your project, and the outside has the instructions clearly printed on the back with pictures to help you figure it out fairly quickly. It also holds up well to it’s “Super strong” advertisement, I created a belt buckle out of it for a costume and the piece that fits into a belt hole has held up to multiple wears and was still flexible enough to bend as I moved with the belt on. Creation Since the plastic needs to be in 140 degree water it seems like you would need extra caution and keep it away from kids, but as long as you keep tongs or an instrument to take it out of the water, the plastic itself has a low heat-conduction rate and is actually fairly cool to the touch so you can allow your kids to play with it as they would with Play-Doh. The only downside I’ve noticed while creating finer details on my projects is that the plastic cools a bit quicker than my sculpting rate so I have to re-submerge it in the water to soften it up again. While this can slow down project making and add a few extra bumps from uneven heating, you can squish those bumps down and paint over the plastic to cover up any flaws. Decoration and Reuse The plastic comes in colors now, so you can go that route for making colorful pieces, but I find that painting the plastic works just as well. The plastic cools to an opaque white so there’s no need to add an extra priming coat; I’ve also found that acrylic paint sticks very well, dries quickly, and shows minimal wear and tear. If you haven’t painted the plastic, reusing it is as simple as using it the first time, heat your water in any pan and drop the chunk in, it will melt like before and still harden just as strong as it was before.

I have a automated cat teaser. It's like a little remote control car, in the shape of a cat and it has a wand on it's head that randomly whips around in circles dangling a toy at the end. The idea is you control it, move it close to your cat and stop, and kitty goes wild on the wand and toy. Kitty did go wild on the wand, too wild and the wand broke. My search to find a replacement part was fruitless. The company went out of business. In steps instamorph. Brewed a cup of water in my keurig, put in a tablespoon of pellets, and 5 minutes of working the putty like plastic and I had fashioned a new wand for the cat teaser. Once it cooled the plastic is flexible, resilient, and perfect for my needs. The consistency of it reminds me a lot of vinyl plastic. IE it's relatively soft, but very strong. It's not stiff enough for some applications like making a suspension arm for an RC car, or anything where the plastic can't bend, but it's very tough. IT wants to give under strain rather than crack or splinter. It looks to be very durable stuff and of course you can just heat it back up if you need to fix it. I sat around trying to find uses for it. Some of the ones I came up with were fixing the insulation on my iphone cable which was pulling out of the plug. I also fixed my LayZBoy couch. There was a plastic wheel that made the recliner operate smoothly that broke. I simply made what looked like a roller skate wheel out of the instamorph and pressed it onto the axle for the recliner while it was hot enough to change shape. Then I let it cool and bingo, my recliner opens smoothly again instead of getting stuck. I wanted to use it to make parts for my aging Losi RC cars but I just don't think it would be stiff enough. The parts I need to make need to be very stiff.

Fast shipping, got the product in 2 days with no hassle. I needed something to make a full face stencil and instamorph delivered beyond what I had hoped for. It's low melting point made it easy to work with, and after only 30sec of cooling I was able to put on my face and mould it. I used a glass casserole dish and filled with 2 inches of water, placed a thermometer in it and turned the stove burner on. Once the temp was at 140 I began by putting the pellets in. Once they turned clear I was able to pull the plastic out with a metal spoon, I was surprised to find that it was like taffy, not soupy and easy to manipulate. I put it on the counter and used the back of the spoon to spread and smooth it out, returning it to the water once in a while to keep from setting. When it was ready I put a straw in my mouth for breathing and put on my face, forming it without any problems. Let it cool on my face for a few min, and presto! Face mask. I cut out my stencil with a heated razor blade after it cooled and was pleased with the results of applying paint via airbrush. No overspray since stencil was perfectly formed to my face. It stays flexible enough to move around and still keep its shape perfectly, while not being brittle. I regelated the pieces I cut out and made an airbrush stand and grommets for an auto project. I can't wait to find other uses!!

I'm an artist, so I was very interested in this product. I wanted to use it to repair a life size resin pet statue. It comes in white pellets that you pour into hot water and then leave it for 2 minutes. It turns into a clear lump that is moldable. You have to work VERY quickly as it will start to get too hard to mold or blend into the other sections of your work. The transparent nature of it also makes it hard to see what you are doing. The problem that I had - being used to working with Sculpey and other materials - was that I could not make the seams less noticeable, as it does not blend like clay, but leaves a clear line where the repair was added. Sanding it did not help, as it just smeared the edge up a bit, but it still stuck out at the edge. I think that I will have to go back and add some Bondo. I have used Sculpey, which works well, but does not always hold up during wear and tear of outdoor decor. To use the Sculpey, you either mold it into the missing piece hole, or you can cover the resin item in foil and put the item with the new section into the oven. (Of course the item must be small enough to fit in the oven!) I would recommend this material with reservations. If you want to make an item with only this material, it may work fine. Sanding it does create problems as you may end up with little rough areas where the sander has melted the area. I also used a knife to try and whittle areas down, but apparently one area was not cured long enough, as the section pulled off with the cut.

Omg this is garbage. It is NOT a good polythermal product. Gets super sticky and unusable, hardens so fast you literally have not finished picking this crap off your hands. It leaves you almost no time before it hardens, so you can't actually mold anything. Waste of money and time. I threw it out. Do NOT BUY

Brilliant

First time I've ever bought thermoplastic. I really do like it. It almost has the consistency of hot glue, but not as sticky when hot. It kind of has an elastic quality when warm and is not quite like clay when forming. It is like a dulled down silly putty when working with it (slightly elastic and stretchy). When it has hardened it is quite strong and will not shatter or stretch, and if thin is quite bendable without kinking. Similar to milk jug plastic. I intrinsically colored mine with cheap tempera paint by kneading and reheating it a few times. When doing that you will need to mentally add white to your paint for the final results.

merci cest parfait

Awesome stuff