FSA Orbit MX 1-1/8Inches Threadless MTB Road Headset with Top Cap, Black , XTE1504

Standard FSA Orbit head unit. Excellent quality. No issues installing. Fit my Orange P7 frame perfectly. I used an expanding compression nut rather than the star-spangled nut.

Worked very well, needed a bit of force to evenly fit to head tube. Rotates very smoothly and is of very good quality

Bought this after buying a cheap headset for my bike, I was in the middle of doing a rigid to hardtail conversion when the cheap headset would only allow my bikes bars to be too tight or way too loose. I put this on and now it rides so so well. Highly recommended as it has mid ranged price but and excellent feel

Quality part

I've ran a version of this headset for over 10 years and decided to buy one for another bike. Same great quality as before and I've no doubt this one will also last for many years.

Replaced the old headset on my 96 GT backwoods. Fit perfectly, great price and can’t go wrong with FSA products

Perfect

Perfecto y de buena calidad

Update: About 500 miles now with the new headset. Still turning very smoothly. I had to tighten the top cap once after a few bumpy rides, but I suspect that is just the slack from my install tightening down some more with my weight. Good quality parts with aluminum cups. I had a steering indexing issue (bike wanted to lock on straight position). Packaging was nicely wrapped despite not being in original packaging and comes with all the pieces in install order. This unit should fit 1 1/8" threadless headsets that uses external cups. Top/Bottom cups, dust O-rings (x2) pre-installed, crown race, sealed cartridge bearings top cover, top cap with bolt, star nut are all included in this headset. Compared to the caged bearings on the old headset, this sealed cartridge unit turns way smoother with less headset movement. This also fixed my indexing issue mentioned above. I will update my review later since I only rode with this new headset a few miles. This was my first headset replacement, took about 3 hours of careful work on my steel frame and fork. The longest part was removing the old headset. For removal of old headset, you will need: 1. 1/2" PVC Pipe (longer than your headtube) 2. Hacksaw 3. Razor blade (from a box cutter) 4. Rubber Mallet 5. Flathead screwdriver Step One: Remove Handlebars and spacers. Tap the top of the fork carefully while holding the bottom of fork to slide out. Step Two: With the PVC pipe, make 2 cuts at one end linear with the pipe. Cut about 2". Then force the ends out to create a taper. Step Three: Slide the PVC pipe into the headtube so the pipe ends rests on either top/bottom cups. Tap with the mallet to pop cups off. Step Four: On the fork, use the mallet to tap the razor blade between crown race and fork. (Took me 30 minutes). Finish with a screwdriver for removal For install, you will need: 6. Rubber Mallet 7. 1 1/4" PVC Pipe with cap 8. Grease (I used automotive hub grease) 9. Block of wood Step Five: Install the top and bottom cups. Make sure you use the mallet carefully with the block of wood over the cups to protect it. A few whacks will get it flush. Use grease to apply around headtube and inner cups. Step Six: Install new crown race. Slide the pipe over the fork steerer tube and use the 1 1/4" PVC pipe to tap the race into place (fork steering tube tapers out slightly). Step Seven: Slide the fork back in, add the slotted compression ring, add the top cover, then tighten the top cap. Then tighten stem.

元々はトカゲのマークが付いたブランドの物をつけていた。良い物だったが6万kmでガタがきてしまった為、安価だったこの商品を購入し装着。 新車の頃のスムーズな動きを取り戻した。 あとはどれだけ耐久性があるかを見守っていきたい。