KAKURI Japanese Hand Plane 42mm, Woodworking Block Plane 5.9" x 2.1" | KANNA Small Manual Wood Planer Hand Tool for Chamfering and Smoothing – Japanese Steel Blade, ECO Oak Body, Made in Japan

Update: After a few days playing with it and watching master craftsmen using their tools, I finally figured out how to tap the blade out. I have most success using a steel hammer, I don't have access to a brass hammer. I did not find any success using a plastic mallet. I also changed the grip from having my index on the blade to using my thumb instead. I also applied a decent amount of pressure onto the blade. I believe the increased pressure increases its inertia which makes the tapping more effective. It has a learning curve compared to western style metal planes. I am changing my rating from 4 stars to 5 stars because all my struggle was inexperience not the fault of the tool.It is well made with a amazing hardwood body. I am a beginner woodworker so I had a few trouble setting it up. When I got it out of the box, I wanted to hone the blade like many woodworkers recommended but I could not get the blade to budge. I followed their guide hitting the chamfer (the daigashira) alternating corners rhythmically. I suspect that this is not a manufacturing error but more so that the wood shrunk as it was dried sitting on store shelves and applying excessive pressure to the blade. Or I might just be doing it wrong. In my process I accidentally split the wood at the mouth so please be careful when you try to set it up.After giving up getting the blade out, I striked the blade further in to try and get a shaving. It was working very well out of box, got a really nice shaving. I won't be getting the thin shavings that Japanese woodworkers could get in their competition, but it was far better than the planes I got from Harbor Freight.eventually I got the blade out by using a vise grip locking plier with its tip wrapped in multiple layers of electrical tape as to not scratch the blade steel. Then I proceeded to whack the chamfered edge and got it out.It is a very nice plane for the price. I would highly recommend it despite my initial struggles.

You must knock the black metal sticking out in front side of plane with small hammer to adjust the location of blade in bottom to be flash to the plane wood box if you want very thin slice shave,hit black metal locates in front of the box more to make blade stick out more to shave thicker/deeper.This is PULL plane, practical way, smart method especially when you want a very thin slice.You do not have to hold plane hard to add force onto where u want to shave, just hold lightly onto the wood and slide when u want thin shave.I shaved the top of my door very thin today and the door open /closes very smoothly finally !!!

For the price and size, this is an excellent plane, but be aware that some care will be necessary to bring it up to snuff, and it will never serve as a proper smoothing plane. The bed is very slightly off on this plane, and so it was necessary to carefully shave a tiny bit off to even it out. I had to take my time on this so as not to make it worse. I also had to take a little time to clean up the edge of the iron. Not a surprise for such a low price.I use this as a block plane, both pulling (like it was intended) and pushing the plane. Because it is a bevel-down iron, one would think that it would not be effective on end grain, but the bed angle is different from a western plane and the iron itself is thicker than a western plane iron (although it is *very* thin compared to a quality Japanese plane iron). The cap iron/chipbreaker is a little flimsy, and so I wonder how long it will hold up; still, after several months of frequent use, I have no complaints. I have trimmed a lot of different hard woods (birch, mulberry, walnut, poplar, including the end grain of all of those) with this plane and it has handled them with ease. It slices easily through soft woods.In comparison to a modern block plane, this is a little better: it is lighter than a metal block plane, the iron is noticeably thicker (so there is no chatter on tough woods), the bed angle is higher (making it easier to push through difficult grain), and the iron holds an edge for a lengthy period without need of additional honing. I don't like the uncomfortable shape of Japanese planes, but since I only use it as a block plane and not a smoother, that isn't a problem. It's *great* for cleaning up dovetails after glueing, since it handles end grain so cleanly.

This thing is really nice. I bought it to do some simple planing as my traditional plane wasn't precise. I was surprised how simple this thing is and how well it works. You need this thing!

Easy to adjust, cuts like a hot knife through butter and it’s gorgeous!👍 Left surfaces shiny smooth and cut through end grain with no problems. Needed very little work to be perfectly flat. Came with detailed instructions and a blade guard. The size is usable in many situations and great for a casual or beginner.👎The blade arrived crooked. Seems like the blade wasn’t held straight while shaping and it messed up the angles of the slot. The slot was wonky and jagged, but that was very easy to remedy.If it wasn’t for the blade, I’d say this is the best plane for the price bar none. I believe I was unlucky with the blade and I’m still so impressed by the quality that I’ll be buying a more premium plane from them soon.

So this is my second time buying this plane, and let me just say it’s a good plan for the price but you get what you pay. My first plane’s sole warped over time but I was abusing it, leaving it in the car during summer, so it’s kinda expected with wood planes. So I got a new one recently and I was checking the sole naturally.To my disappointment there’s a slight twist (not just a bow or cup, but a twist). So I’m going to return it. The blade is sharp out of the box from my experience but I will probably get a Lee Nielsen or veritas in the future to save the headache.Again, these are not bad for the price, but I think I’d rather spend a bit more rather than constantly making the soles flat.

I bought the 60 mm version years ago and it's become my favorite hand plane, even compared against various Stanleys, so I bought this 42 mm one to try. It's a beautiful little plane, and works great after a little tuning. The bed needed flattened, which is an inevitable thing with wooden planes. The blade needed sharpened and honed, which involved regrinding it a bit as it had been made with a slight chamfer (which makes it easier to use and more forgiving for some things), but I prefer a flat grind. All back together (after about 20 minutes of work overall) the blade depth adjusted nicely and it works perfectly, and has a really nice feel and control to it; no complaints at all.

I am an advanced hobbyist woodworker, and a retired carpenter (served a four year apprenticeship). I have a number of Japanese tools among my many, many tools. Some of the chisels I love (some hot so much), some of the saws are better than OK, but I'm committed to Western style. Let's see, I began my apprenticeship in 1975, and worked along my dad for a decade or more prior to that, so I'm a bit long in the tooth!I've been intriqued with Japanese hand planes for a number of years but never enough to take the plunge. A week ago I decided to dip my toes with this block plane. It's OK! Then why five stars? Price is cheap, for one thing and it has the basis for being an excellent plane. While it can make a shaving right away, you are better off thoroughly reading the instructions and experimenting with a piece of straight grain softwood.So, what do you need to do? I can understand how some reviewers have said the blade is stuck (I thought so too, until I learned exactly where to tap the back). Some say the blade is razor sharp. Well, to the not so experienced, it might be, but spend a bit of time on a very fine grade stone on the bevel and face of the blade. It took about ten minutes to sharpen. Don't forget to also smooth the wedge, both the part the touches the blade and the two bent points at the rear. Experiment with inserting the bladefor proper projection, then lightly tap the wedge into place (don't over tighten-not needed). Now begin experimenting, pulling the blade towards you.Thirty minutes after opening the package, I was making .001" thick shavings-very nice, but it was on softwood! I need to learn more about this plane and maybe replace the metal wedge with One made from white oak. I may try to refine the bladebevel a it more. Remember, this is just an experiment, as I have well over hundred handplanes already, including several dozen western metallic planes. For $20.00 bucks and change, this is a cheap, fun way to try Japanese style hand planes, but remember, it is not fully ready to go, right out of the box, but a bit of time invested, will reward you with satisfactory results!

Used it on different projects and it cuts very well. The tapping to position the blade needs some getting used to. But it’s a fun and great tool to have in your toolbox. The woods surface of the plane is also great, as it is less likely to scratch the woods you’re working on when you slip.

Türkiye'ye sipariş verdim ve gümrükte sorun yaşamayı mı bekliyordum? ama benden sadece 2 dolar vergi ödememi istediler. çok hızlı geldi. çok iyi yapılmış bir ürün.

本体が手のひらサイズなので、とても使いやすいです。切れ味は刃の出幅を絶妙に調整できれば、スムーズにけずれて、普通に使えます。

Very sharp and easy to use.

Ce petit rabot est très bien fait mais non préparé ! Il faut y accorder un travail de mise en forme et de réglages assez fins et poussés (des tas de videos existent sur YouTube à ce sujet) avant de s'en servir avec beaucoup de plaisir. A l'instar des scies japonaises, ce type de rabot s'utilise en tirant vers soi et non en poussant comme avec un rabot européen traditionnel. Celui-ci est arrivé très bien protégé et avec un fer parfaitement coupant. Il a fallu régler son contre-fer mais il y avait peu de travail sur celui-ci. En revanche il faut creuser (au grattoir) la sole en deux endroit très précis d'où l'utilité des videos.